Once more for the manatees

If you know me at all, you know I am very concerned for endangered species, probably none more than the manatee.

Manatees are gentle aquatic mammals, herbivores that are most closely related to the elephant. Although they are not as well understood as dolphins, in studies they have shown similar intelligence. They are endangered, numbering only about 4,480. With no natural enemies, manatees are often killed by boat strikes along with other mostly accidental human causes.

Population viability studies carried out in 1997 found that decreasing adult survival and eventual extinction would be a probable future outcome for Florida manatees, without additional protection. Fortunately, the work of concerned citizens and organizations has brought the Florida manatee population up from critically endangered, but their existence is still tenuous.

The Save the Manatee Club is the manatee’s closest ally. SMC’s role is to protect endangered manatees and their aquatic habitat for future generations. To achieve this mission they work to increase public awareness and education; sponsor manatee research, rescue, rehabilitation, and release efforts; and advocate for strong protection measures, such as boat speed zones, and sanctuaries. SMC also supports research and conservation efforts for other sirenian species around the world.

Starting today, and for the next two weeks, 25% of all my sales will go to the Save the Manatee Club, and I have collected some sea-theme vintage just to tempt you! Please help me help these wonderful animals.

50s fish print cotton circle skirt

60s Enid Collins-style bag

Pink rhinestone fish pin

Please visit denisebrain.com and shop any of my stores to help manatees through the end of April.

Beginning in 1912

With so much focus on the sad event that took place 100 years ago, I thought I'd mention a few of the other events of 1912—specifically beginnings.

 

Ceil Chapman born.
Ceil Chapman gown, 1951 (hpprints.com)

Eleanor Powell and Gene Kelly born. (It was a good year for dancers!)

Mayor Yukio Ozaki of Tokyo gives 3,000 cherry blossom trees to be planted in Washington, D.C., to symbolize the friendship between the two countries. 

Paramount Pictures and Universal Studios created.

L.L. Bean founded.

Women’s swimming and diving added to Olympic sports.

1912 British Women's 4 x 100 Meters Freestyle Swimming Team (womenshistory.about.com)




The Girl Scouts of the USA founded.

Founder Juliette Gordon Low poses with some of the nation's first Girl Scouts (girlscouts.org)

Jacques Fath born.  

Jacques Fath adjusting one of his ball gowns, 1951. © Genevieve Naylor/CORBIS (fashionencyclopedia.com)

What you might have worn on the Titanic

It is the 100th anniversary of the tragic sinking of the Titanic. 

When I first started my online vintage clothing business, the latest buzzword was Titanic, because of the blockbuster movie. Everyone wanted the look in authentic vintage clothing, and I can understand that—it’s splendid. The silhouette is straight and tall, the waist is raised, the embellishments are intricate and ornate. Orientalism was a modern trend, and actually, so was modernism. Here are items from the Metropolitan Museum’s collection dated from the time. Please see many more on my Pinterest board Fashions of 1912. 

Vogue Cover - March 1912  by George Wolfe Plank (condenaststore.com)

Evening dress, 1910-14 Callot Soeurs

Detail of Callot Soeurs gown

Evening purse, 1910-20, unlabeled French

Evening dress, 1911-15, Jeanne Hallée

Hat, ca. 1912, “L.P. Hollander & Co/Fifth Ave. at 46th St/New York”

Evening coat, 1910-15, Liberty of London, Textile by Arthur Silver

Evening dress, 1911-13, Mrs. Osborn Company (American)

The avant garde on the Titanic might have worn a design by Paul Poiret, the most modern of moderns, and the greatest proponent of Orientalism.

Evening dress, 1912, Paul Poiret

If you were yourself a designer, you might have worn your own creation, as surely did Lady Duff Gordon, professionally known as Lucile. She was a survivor of the Titanic.

Evening dress, ca. 1912 Lucile (Lady Duff Gordon)

Advice from Madame Dariaux

Genevieve Antoine Dariaux, scanned from my worn 1964-edition dust jacket (Claude Ohm, photo)

I can see from comments on Amazon.com regarding the reissued Elegance that there are some differences of opinion about the advice Madame Dariaux proffers. Yes, she speaks in very certain terms about elegance, and a woman may shrink from a description that makes her feel she is being classified as “vulgar.” I think it is important to remember that this book was first published in 1964, and the world was in some ways a different place. Many fashions have come and gone since, and it seems to me that the remarkable thing is that so much of her advice is still sound. At the very least it is a tremendous insight into that moment in fashion, and society in general.

Here are some of my favorite words of wisdom from Mme Dariaux:

On age

The most elegant women are those who have discovered their personal style, and who, through years of dressing themselves with care, know exactly what suits them and stick to it. 

On budgeting

No woman has ever lacked elegance because of an excess of simplicity but always because of an accumulation of elaborate details or of ensembles that are badly co-ordinated or ill-adapted to the hour and the occasion.

On comfort

We can no longer bear the thought of the slightest restriction, physical or moral, and many of the details which were considered to be a mark of elegance some years ago are condemned today for reasons of comfort.   

Practically the only die-hards to resist are women’s shoes, whose forms are still absurdly and absolutely the contrary of good sense and good comfort.

...if women continue to seek comfort above all twenty-four hours a day, twelve months a year, they may eventually find that they have allowed themselves to become slaves to the crepe-rubber sole, nylon from head to toe, predigested meals, organized travel, functional uniformity and general stultification.

On discretion

...a sort of refined good taste, is very often a synonym for elegance, and until 8 PM it should be your principal objective. But discretion should never be confused with drabness. 

On fashion

...outstanding perennials are:
Capes
Romantic evening dresses, especially in lace
Straw picture hats for summer
Well-tailored tweed suits for country wear
Well-cut camel’s-hair sport coats
Grecian-style draped chiffon evening dresses
Fur hats, cossack style
Pleated skirts (with the length adjusted to the current mode)
Furred leather boots and sturdy country walking shoes
Long, décolleté black crepe evening sheaths
Pearls

On fashion reporting

...it seems to me that a really elegant woman owes it to herself to rely on her own judgment if she does not wish to look like everybody else and thus become an anonymous figure in the great mass of women who are better and better but more and more uniformly dressed.

On figures

The important point is to realize exactly what are your own physical proportions, to resist the styles which are definitely not for you, and to limit yourself to what is most becoming to your particular shape—especially when the fashion of the moment happens to be one which doesn’t suit you at all. 

On grooming

There is a certain kind of carelessness, a more or less studied negligence, which can in certain circumstances (on vacation, for example) be the height of chic. But these subtleties are not within the grasp of every woman, it is far better to look as if you stepped out of a bandbox than as if you had just tumbled out of bed.

On handicaps (imperfections might be a more modern choice of word)

Even if nature has been rather stingy with you in its gifts, it is useless to moan about what you haven’t got. Instead, exercise your ingenuity in playing up your best features and in camouflaging the rest. Elegance is also a matter of good humor and of optimism.

On originality

...fashion can only be renewed by a continuous stream of original experiments, which cease to shock as soon as they have been adopted by a certain number of people. ...without the inventive women and designers who refuse to be just like everybody else, fashion would cease to exist.

On posture

...it is always to a woman’s advantage to hold herself straight, as if she wished to stretch her height by several inches, even if she is already very tall. A rounded back, sagging shoulders and a drooping chin create an image of extreme lassitude, or discouragement with life...and of being ten years older than you really are.

On pounds

Although it isn’t necessarily indispensable to be as skinny as a fashion moden in order to be elegant, it is probably true that the list of the Ten Best Dressed Women is also a list of the Ten Hungriest Women.

...it is ironic that the thinner we are supposed to be, the more fattening modern life becomes, for nervous overweight is certainly one of the maladies of the century.

On prosperity

[a few classic, top-quality items] may in the long run render more service than six dresses in the latest fashion from an expensive designer. 

The stock market isn’t always rising, and it may sometimes be necessary to coast along for several years on what you already own without appearing to be any less elegant.

On quantity

...it is undeniable that the American woman is constantly surrounded by new temptations and assailed by the most irresistible kind of fashion advertising. Moreover, she had been told that her role in the national economy is to continually buy and consume. And yet, I wonder if she wouldn’t profit by replacing once in a while her penchant for quantity with a quest for quality. She might find that not only is her elegance increased, but also the enjoyment and even the confidence that she gets from her clothes.

Oh yes, I do see myself in her admonitions, such as in this entry: “Eccentricity where elegance is concerned is a refusal to conform to the current fashion [and consists, among other things] of adopting the dress of a by-gone era (like the Madwoman of Chaillot).” However, Mme Dariaux does not confuse elegance with other virtues. In describing the young Brigitte Bardot, Dariaux does not consider her elegant, but admits “she has created a style of her own and she sticks to it, which is, after all, very intelligent.”

I love this book, even at times when I would choose to not follow Mme Dariaux’s advice from 1964. I would appreciate knowing what she thought every five or six years since 1964, because I’m sure her eye (and writing style) would have been as sharp as ever...It probably still is!

Madame Dariaux’s Elegance

One most excellent (and, I might add, hopeful) definition of elegance comes from Geneviève Antoine Dariaux at the start of her book Elegance; a Complete Guide for Every Women Who Wants to Be Well and Properly Dressed on All Occasions, published in 1964:

What is Elegance? It is a sort of harmony that rather resembles beauty, with the difference that the latter is more often a gift of nature and the former the result of art.

Years ago I walked into a small town library sale and purchased my much-used copy of Elegance. It looked intriguing, but I had no idea just how. As my friend drove us home I randomly turned to pages and read aloud the most pithy, savvy and often funny statements on the subject of dressing and appearing elegantly. Madame Dariaux does not attempt to address other forms of elegance, but she writes wonderfully on this aspect, which she knows so well. In 1964, the author (who is still living) was directrice at the house of Nina Ricci.

The dust jacket from my 1964 copy

The book provides advice in an A to Z (Accessories to Zippers) format. It is a must for vintage enthusiasts, providing insights into how people dressed well in the early 60s. Some of this advice is definitely dated—such as stating that after the age of 20 a woman should never wear hair down to her shoulders—but even her statements tinged with elements of passed fashion still seem sound in their principles.

I believe one actually could appear more elegant today with the help of this book.

This very thought was the subject of the novel Elegance, written in 2004 by Kathleen Tessaro. The novel chronicles a depressed woman finding Dariaux’s book in a used book store and transforming herself and her life, based on the advice. I haven’t read this book, but the premise intrigues me. Also in 2004, Geneviève Antoine Dariaux’s book was reissued...so you may not need to find it at a used book sale!

Next time: Some timeless advice from Elegance

Toward a definition of elegance

dictionary.com defines elegance as

1. tastefully fine or luxurious in dress, style, design, etc.: elegant furnishings.

2. gracefully refined and dignified, as in tastes, habits, or literary style: an elegant young gentleman; an elegant prosodist.

3. graceful in form or movement: an elegant wave of the hand.

4. appropriate to refined taste: a man devoted to elegant pursuits.

5. excellent; fine; superior: an absolutely elegant wine.

Before a recent edit, the Wikipedia entry for elegance included “the concept is vaguely and arbitrarily understood” then went on, “Nonetheless, essential components of the concept include simplicity and consistency of design, focusing on the essential features of an object. In art of any kind one might also require dignified grace, or restrained beauty of style. Visual stimuli are frequently considered elegant if a small number of colors and stimuli are used, emphasizing the remainder.”

Some favorite quotations that give some interesting angles on the subject (found on thinkexist.com):

Elegance is refusal.—Coco Chanel

The only real elegance is in the mind; if you've got that, the rest really comes from it.—Diana Vreeland

Isn't elegance forgetting what one is wearing?—Yves Saint Laurent

To me, elegance is not to pass unnoticed but to get to the very soul of what one is.—Christian Lacroix

Stormy Weather

You know what they say about April showers... {click here for proof!}

Vintage basketball in honor of March Madness

My grandmother, 2nd from right, in 1915

My aunt told me this about the photo: "The WNC stands for Wesleyan Normal College. 1915 is likely to be the proper date, or perhaps 1916. Mother graduated from high school at 15 and her father thought that was too young to go off to college. The next year she went to normal school, which is what they called teachers' colleges in those days, and was the education proper young ladies were expected to follow."  ...and basketball was obviously part of that proper education! 

Meditation on elegance

On 2/17/12 I read a Huffington Post style article titled Stefano Pilati: 'It's Not Easy To Find Elegant Women'. Mr. Pilati, who is the creative director at Yves Saint Laurent, is quoted in an interview with VICE as saying:  

My idea of elegance...is that someone is elegant when he or she shows a good knowledge of what fits them, where you can find naturalness and self-esteem. Not showing off. Elegance is the idea of showing an optimistic depiction of oneself, and to lose oneself in the frivolity of style and fashion. Nowadays nobody gives a shit about being elegant, or chic.

This article has sent me on a search for the meaning of elegance, and whether or not it matters. It is a somewhat personal quest because I don’t feel elegant myself. I wonder if I should, whether or not it is important. Mr. Pilati does not exhibit elegance in his choice of words; is he correct in saying that it is hard to find elegant women now?

I start by showing and quoting Audrey Hepburn, the most elegant woman I can think of.

“For beautiful eyes, look for the good in others; for beautiful lips, speak only words of kindness; and for poise, walk with the knowledge that you are never alone.” —Audrey Hepburn

Martha Sleeper creates

I recently sold a vibrant cotton skirt from the 1950s, and the label sent me searching for more information.

I don’t often see labels from Puerto Rico, and somehow the name Martha Sleeper seemed familiar.

Then I watched a favorite movie from 1945, The Bells of St. Mary’s, and there she was! Martha Sleeper, born in 1910, started acting in films in 1924. The Bells was her last movie, after having a very busy film career in the 20s and 30s. In the 1940s, Sleeper appeared on Broadway.

Image of the actress from The Bells of St. Mary’s

In 1949, Martha Sleeper visited Puerto Rico on a Caribbean cruise, and went no further. It was love at first sight, evidenced by her promptly selling her New York home and yacht over the phone. She started a business designing and creating clothing for her shop located at 101 Fortaleza Street in Old San Juan, a 300-year old building that she purchased and renovated. From Google Maps one can see that this is a very charming historic area—it’s quite easy to imagine falling in love.

If I were more involved in the world of vintage jewelry, I would no doubt have known of Martha Sleeper’s Bakelite, wood and metal creations, which she began making for herself in the 1930s. Others in Hollywood took note, and requested her work, and soon the actress had a major sideline profession. 

From the Milwaukee Sentinel 2/23/40

In the 1970s, Andy Warhol amassed a huge collection of Martha Sleeper’s Bakelite jewelry. His fondness for her creations helped raise interest in (and prices for) this Depression-era affordable plastic. (From Bakelite: A Revolutionary Early Plastic)

Attrib. Martha Sleeper Bakelite and wood poodle pin from deja-voodoo.com

Martha Sleeper matchsticks necklace and bracelet sold by Mod Bag on 1st dibs

To wear with her colorful Bakelite, how about her patchwork skirt, available from engbeav on eBay:

or her cotton shift dress from Belle à Coeur Treasure Trove Vintage:

I’ve certainly got my eye out for this multifaceted woman’s work now, whether on film, in Bakelite, or in brilliantly-colored cotton!

Sleeper in the 1960s, during the time she was  designing clothing in Puerto Rico (photo from silenthollywood.com)

Martha Sleeper on wikipedia 

“Merry Martha Sleeper Jewelry & Fashions” from Inherited Values 

“Martha Sleeper – Silent Film Actress to Fashion Designer” from All Barbie’s Fault

“Martha Sleeper” on decotini.com 

“Martha Sleeper” on silenthollywood.com

Spring has arrived at the Vintage Fashion Guild

Each spring and fall the VFG puts together a collection of vintage items that seem to be the inspirations for current trends. We call it, appropriately enough, Vintage Inspiration. This spring we decided to make all the items shown be available, so you can click on any item to be taken to that seller's site. Think of it as a vintage catalog for spring!

{click to view}

This feature is my design, and I want to acknowledge the great work of the VFG Site Committee, especially my co-chair Mary (The Vintage Merchant), as well as Amy (Viva Vintage Clothing) and Cat (ClubVintage). 

Are you wearing the green?

1916 postcard downloaded by permission from Tipnut

Ways to avoid being pinched, from my shops —

Late 40s spring green linen dress

60s chiffon party dress

60s green twill dress

60s pleated party dress with rhinestone waistband

50s batwing sleeve coat

60s Bonnie Cashin canvas & leather coat

50s iridescent plaid taffeta party dress

50s Hattie Carnegie earrings

50s tulle & taffeta gown and wrap

Happy St. Patrick’s Day!

...and don’t forget: Vintage clothing is green in another way too! 

Why “denisebrain”

Recently I’ve been asked a handful of times why my business is called denisebrain, and it’s probably about time I shared the story again publicly.

My name isn’t Denise Brain, but it has been a bit of a nickname for me. I am a professional horn player and teacher, and Dennis Brain is one of the greatest horn heroes any horn player could ever have. Tragically, the Englishman was only 36 when he suffered a fatal crash in his sports car in 1957. He had already become arguably the greatest hornist of modern times.

Dennis Brain

In 1999, when I was first prompted to provide a user name on eBay, I was helping a student bid on horns and my first thought was the nickname denisebrain.

From eBay, to Etsy, to my own website called denisebrain.com, I have had no competition for the use of this name! I don’t use the name denisebrain flippantly—I feel the utmost respect and awe for the inimitable musician who inspired it. 

It isn’t always easy for others to understand my love for both vintage clothing and the horn, but I have a simple premise that ties these in my mind: I am attracted to beauty. I love the quality and beauty of vintage clothing and I consider the horn capable of the most beautiful sounds in music.

Tying these together further for me, I am growing a small collection of vintage clothing and accessories featuring horns of all types and eras (other than the all-too numerous Ugly Christmas Sweaters with horns that is!) and here are some:

I made these earrings out of Christmas ornaments

I’ve worn the earrings for many a concert over the years (Jim Hendrickson photo)

50s modern print circle skirt

50s instrument print dress...and my most beautiful accessory

50s Vera scarf

70s photo print dress

Some, not all, of my vintage horn pins!

A few have asked if there are video or audio examples of me playing my horn online. There are, but not without some permissions granted. Here, however, is a brief snippet of my playing, from hornexcerpts.org.

Queen Mab Scherzo from Romeo and Juliet by Hector Berlioz

I was really pleased that the site’s administrator chose the San Diego Symphony’s performance of this excerpt from Berlioz’ Romeo and Juliet as a good example of this important horn part. I’m playing 3rd horn, which happens to be the highest part in this brief passage. Kudos to my former colleagues in the San Diego Symphony, particularly the horns on this recording: John Lorge, Warren Gref, Doug Hall and Keith Popejoy. 

If you ever see a vintage horn print item, I’d be very grateful if you’d let me know about it!